Author Topic: Headlight  (Read 6246 times)

unknownuser01

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Headlight
« on: August 16, 2012, 11:20:50 PM »
I feel like the headlight isn't bright enough. Does anyone know of a HID headlight mod?

Southpaw32

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2012, 09:49:10 PM »
I was wondering about this too. Also would love to go LED on the other lights.

unknownuser01

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2012, 10:13:46 AM »
I have looked into using LED's as well. I want to say that I read somewhere about issues with running LED's on an AC system, but I can't really remember. I found an LED that could replace the headlight, but since it's forward facing, and won't use the reflectivity of the enclosure, I'm not sure if it would be brighter. I think I may try it. I will post the results here.

harry

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2012, 01:52:30 PM »
as far as i know LED's will only work with DC .
 i use one for testing  CDI's , old style points  and other
 applications but they don't light up if you hook them up backwards.
 you have to have a rectifier to allow it to work on AC i would think.

 oilyhans
i own a scooter shop  with rentals ,sales& racing parts.
i also appraise scooters for KBB.

2003 Vino classic stage 0.75
de-reged stock variator w/8g sliding weights.
1.5k rpm  springs
42mph
2005 veniceLX ~70cc~upjet~1.5k rpm springs & 7gr sliders
46mph
KeyWest de restricted~8gr slide

unknownuser01

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2012, 06:13:40 PM »
Well I know that it has a rectifier, to charge the battery. But I'm not sure if the lighting is connected to that or the alternater or whatever its called.

unknownuser01

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2012, 05:24:15 PM »
Ok, so here's what I've learned. The tail lights, turn signals, and fuel gauge run off the battery, which is constant DC. The headlights and gauge lights run off the rectifier(regulator), which is also DC, but not a constant current. To run HID's, you would need to run direct wiring through a switch, then through the ignition, then to battery. It's not wise to ground off the frame, so you would want to direct wire the negative wire to the battery as well. You would also want to modify or replace the stator(alternator) to compensate for the additional drain on the battery. The other issue is the heat from the bulb. Apparently, it's hot enough to melt the enclosure and lens. This can be remedied by venting the headlight enclosure. Hope this helps!

The Professor

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2012, 11:16:12 PM »
I bought a 60watt bulb off of Amazon for about $6 I think, and it made a huge difference, but it was still easy to over drive the lights on dark road.

unknownuser01

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2012, 09:04:17 AM »
I bought a 60watt bulb off of Amazon for about $6 I think, and it made a huge difference, but it was still easy to over drive the lights on dark road.

Do you have a link for that bulb?

Josecastro233

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2012, 01:48:00 PM »
I have a lazer 9 150 and i dont have a batt hooked up to it. My headlights and taillights work but my turn signals dont work at all. Do i need to get a batt for the scooter or no? ???

unknownuser01

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2012, 04:17:59 PM »
I have a lazer 9 150 and i dont have a batt hooked up to it. My headlights and taillights work but my turn signals dont work at all. Do i need to get a batt for the scooter or no? ???

Yes. Your brake light and turn signals run off the battery, so you need to have a battery installed for them to work.

harry

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #10 on: October 04, 2012, 08:29:01 AM »
besides holding power the battery acts like a buffer .
 many scooters will blow the headlight running with out a battery...
 a dead one is better than no battery

 oilyhans
i own a scooter shop  with rentals ,sales& racing parts.
i also appraise scooters for KBB.

2003 Vino classic stage 0.75
de-reged stock variator w/8g sliding weights.
1.5k rpm  springs
42mph
2005 veniceLX ~70cc~upjet~1.5k rpm springs & 7gr sliders
46mph
KeyWest de restricted~8gr slide

sparc5

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2012, 08:28:31 PM »
It was very easy, just time consuming.  I changed out the stator, rotor, and rectifier/regulator (R/R) with the 11 pole one from a Honda Ruckus.  It looks identical to this one and I used their wiring instructions

The only thing that isn't in the diagram is the AC that normally powers the lights had to be switched to DC.    One just needs to find the now disconnected wire that carries AC from the original  stator and gets switched on and off with the ignition and run 12V+ to it.  I discovered this wire by attaching +12V to the disconnected possible wires from old the stator with the ignition switch on (but motor off).  Once I found it all the lights came on (weird feeling to see that without the engine sounds).  Horn worked, turn signal worked.  Everything that normally ran on AC can also run on DC!   If memory serves me that wire is in the front bundle behind the headlight.  I permanently tied in a +12V wire to it (the fused +12V wire that goes to the battery), so when I turn on the ignition all the lights come on.  

The items you need are the flywheel and 11 pole stator, 11 pole R/R, flywheel puller, assorted terminal connectors, electrical tape,  optional but highly recommended would be the impact wrench and multimeter.     Putting in the new stator and rotor are plug and play, it is keyed the same, the trigger is at the same place, they use the same screws.   The conversion to DC is what took 95% of the time.  
« Last Edit: November 18, 2012, 05:21:08 AM by sparc5 »

The Professor

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Re: Headlight
« Reply #12 on: August 24, 2014, 02:58:03 AM »

Thanks for the info on the 11 pole. You mentioned a Ruckus, do you have a Ruckus? I swapped this engine into my Ruckus.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2014, 08:48:08 AM by harry »