How to test auto choke?

[Boomer]

Hi there,
I have a starting issue and would like to know how to test the auto-choke. I have unbolted the auto choke and turned on the ignition hoping I would see the spring and plunger on the auto-choke move, but there appears to be little or no movement. Does anyone know the resistance of the auto-choke so I can check it with a multimeter? Or is there another test I can use??

I am asking this question as I too have a starting issue as outlined below:

I ride the scooter everyday to work and it will fire up almost immediately (using the electric starter) and will blast off down the road. If I leave the scooter sitting for more than 3 days it takes 10-15mins of cranking (using both electric and kick start) to start. Once it is going it is happy and will start fine.
I had the airbox off trying to trouble shoot this problem and decided to choke it by hand (by placing my hand over the carbys air intake) and it sprung into life…so I am suspicious of the auto-choke not working properly?

Any other suggestions as to the source of the problem? Would the fuel in the Carby bowl evaporate in 3-4days??

Some bike details:
2006 R50X: 6,000Km on the clock, Bike all is stock, I have a new stator, new CDI, new spark plug (correctly gapped), fuel mix is a little rich, but not enough to foul the plug. Battery is good with lots of life in it.

thanks

[harry]

the choke does not move right away when you plug it in .
it takes about 3-5 mins for it to operate, it will only move about 1mm or so.
to test;
first ,
make sure you have voltage at the plug  it will always be there when the key
or scooter is on.
second,
remove the choke. place it on a bench with a piece of white paper
 underneath the choke  . use a square to mark the paper where the
"plunger" is  . plug in and wait  5 min. remeasure, if plunger has moved
the choke is working.
that being said  they rarely go bad.... mostly people expect it to
work as soon as its plugged in, when  they don't see it move
they think its bad...and then buy a new one

 oilyhans

[Boomer]

Thanks for that Harry,
So if the choke takes a while to "work" then the choke will be used more to keep the scooter idling once the scooter has started as apposed to the choke assissting in cold starting in the first few minutes of cranking??

I checked the choke using the method you described Harry and the plunger did not move. I waited for more than 5 mintues and repeated it to make sure i didn't stuff it up.

[harry]

i don't think polarity matters for the coil to heat up.
 does  the choke get hot?  and does it have continuity ?
since its a coil it should have some resistance but it should have
continuity.

oilyhans

[Boomer]

tested for continuity and it has continuity and the resistance was ~25 ohms.

I retested the choke (by connecting it straight to the battery) and after 5minutes, choke was warm i could easily see that the plunger has extened outwards. So in from my previous post... i did muck it up!

i tested for power where the choke plugs into the electrical loom. No power at the connection, even with the key turned on. So there may be short somewhere.

Is there a fuse or some other electrical unit further up the loom between the battery and ignition that may have blown?
 

[harry]

no other fuses but the main fuse by the battery
 if the starter or horn works the fuse is ok
check the continuity of each wire in the choke
harness side.

 oilyhans

[Boomer]

hi,
Traced the fault, one of the spade connectors (inside the plastic connector) on the harness was loose with a bad contact. quick re-crimp and auto choke is working fine and gets nice and warm now. thanks for your help with this one Harry.

i may have found the true fault (if you read my first post). The rubber hose bewteen the Carb and intake manifold has a hole in it, so i now need to replace that bit. Harry do you have any instock?? how much are they?

Cheers

[harry]

None in stock in my shop right now,  however  i can order one for you.
BUT in the mean time here's a simple repair you can do for now
go buy some liquid wire repair rubber .. its for coating wires that 
you want to protect from shorting out on something 
clean the intake hose real good with some carb cleaner &
put on 2 coatings and that should do the job

 oilyhans

[Boomer]

Thanks for the tip, will try it. Local scooter shop is trying to get replacement part from the importer...could be quite a wait thou??

Cheers

[harry]

it  will take me about a week to get the part
& it will be a genuine TGB R50X intake cost is about $12

 oilyhans