which were most likely made from parts of the needle bearing coming apart.
unless it was only in the exact middle of the piston only and not
the head too, which is caused by a plug that is too long.
oilyhans
The needle bearing was fine as far as I could tell. It was still a nice snug fit up against the gudgeon pin from the stage6 kit (which does not come with a needle bearing!) and did not look like it had been damaged.
The piston on the other hand where it is supposed to be a nice snug fit against the gudgeon pin; what a mess! I'm not sure how debri's would make it around the piston into the chamber but there was a substantial amount of material missing from here, allowing the pin to move about 1mm eccentrically in the piston.
As for the plug I had a closer look and compared it to a new plug. It's only really bent at the tip, no meat missing.
However when fitting an aftermarket 5 pin CDI it seems if you don't cut the brown wire, even though there is no pin corresponding to it, it blows the CDI. Therefore you need to use an aftermarket CDI AND cut the brown wire. I used a bullet connector so I can re-join it quickly if I ever need to reinstall the stock CDI.
Meatshake? Did you lengthen the throttle cable by making a new longer inner or shortening the outer?
Interesting on the CDI. I'm glad somebody figured that out before me sounds like I would have blown the new cdi!
Regardless, with that wire cut on mine, there was no rev limit imposed.. (And I actually think the wire that is cut on mine is green not brown? but i'm not home to check)
Yesterday afternoon, I took the scooter for a bit of a ride to the local repco to buy some spark plugs for my other project a kwaka kh100. While riding it i thought maybe it was running a bit rich, as when I was going WOT it was almost slowing down (but not really just bogging a bit). But when I was doing 60 or so on a flat, and I held the throttle at about 1/8 (probably still in the pilot jet I presume?) it would start to accelerate more until it got into the power band around 9000rpm then really start to hum along - until I opened the throttle more then it would die.
So last night I started playing with the jets, I took it from an 82MJ to a 72MJ one at a time. With the 82 in everything was looking pretty black and oily. The 72MJ is still a bit black in there but not as bad, and it goes a hell of a lot better. It will now reach 80 on the flat and it kinda felt like it would still pull.
I'm not sure how small I should go on the jets, as the standard jet with the mikuni carb was a 70 or something. I'm lead to believe that bigger diameter = smaller jet but I haven't read that from a credible source.
I was thinking it would be better to run it rich for a while and see how I go.
Do you guys measure the head-temp when tuning? I see some forums where people (I think it was that 90gtvert guy) keep an eye on the head temps when tuning....
Also, I shortened the outer cable and use the original elbow from the mikuni carb, as it was a bit shorter than the one that came with my PHBG fake. The throttle opens right up at WOT with this setup, I see this is a problem on some scooters when bigger carbs are installed.
Also choke is AOK. The cable actually sits a little bit loose in the socket on the carb when the choke is off. I bought the stage6 lever choke one also. Works a treat! Though when the choke is one the engine just wants to die, except for the first few seconds after starting. Nothing like what I remember the choke in my first car being like - which did not want to run at all without the choke for the first 10 minutes!
I notice that the choke on these scooters seems to be a different to what I'm used to do, acting on the fuel side of things
