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My 2007 R50X

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Hagabard

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Just posted pics of my 2007 R50X in the pics forum, figured that was the best place to post first.  I don't have any current ones, but those would just show the scrapes from when I found myself flipped off it.  (Hint: Mud sucks)

I bought my 2007 TGB R50X in 2007 new from a dealer.  The transaction sucked, and their service sucked later, but I'm very happy with the scooter.

I did a fair amount of research before buying a scooter, and it seemed to me that the TGB were among the best 50cc varieties out there.  (Certainly compared to a lot of the Chinese piles of crap they call scooters.)  Yea, I paid more for the TGB, but it has been near perfect for me.  I also specifically ordered the R50X instead of driving off the lot in a Laser R5.  I waited (again, transaction issues) a while to get it, but I feel the extra wait and even extra cash has been worth it.  (I got a loan anyway, so meh to the few hundred more.)

I didn't pull the battery my first winter, and while I did run it some over the winter, I killed it.  (Don't use the cell phone charger plug for anything other than what they call it, they aren't kidding.)  I fully emptied the gas and pulled my battery this winter, and while I didn't put it on a trickle charger, it's been getting me around great this year, albeit I have to kick start more than I would prefer, but I haven't been doing more than really short trips yet.  I'll probably pull it back out and get it on my friends charger for a bit later.  Electric start works as long as I ride at least 15 minutes (which is how long it takes to get to work) so once I start commuting again, I should be ok.

After my 300mi break in period (that didn't take long as it was August and I'd been waiting forever to get the damn thing) I swapped out the gear box oil with synthetic.  I bought a liter, figure at under 100cc its going to last me a long time, not bad for like $6.  I have also switched to synthetic 2-cycle oil, which has reduced the smoke on my ride somewhat.  I haven't really been keeping track of the gas mileage lately, but I do get around what is advertised.  Other than swapping the oils for synthetics, I have not done anything (mod wise) to it since it is still technically under its two year warranty, and I didn't want to do much until that was past.

Since I don't care about that so much anymore, as I only have just over 2000 miles on the thing and the dealer I got mine from is worthless here (I got a new battery for $180 when I took it in for what I thought was a possible warranty issue - They didn't ask, they just did it...), I'll probably be looking at some minor de-restricting by the end of the year.  I think that taking out the washer for the limiter in the transmission will be the first thing I do, but I was wondering what other 'free' (as in no new parts needed) mods are good for de-restricting?  I would like them to be reversible since in about 5 years I will probably let my son drive it around (when he is of age to do so), and I'd like to be able to put the restricts back in place.  From what I've read in here, clipping the wire that works in some models doesn't seem to work in this one?  Good to know, although myself I would probably use a switch.

It has finally quit raining up here, and while the low is still in the lower 30s tonight, I think I may finally drive it to work for the first time this year.  (I work overnights.)  I've noticed it usually runs pretty good until it gets below 40F - then you had better be sure it is well warmed up before driving about or it might die at lights, etc.  I love my cage car ('91 Honda Prelude 4ws) but my TGB R50X is still way too much fun to ride.  The fact that it gets almost 3x the MPG doesn't hurt either.

My goal has been to get at least 1,000 miles a season on, which I have managed to do on average.  I don't know how long it will take to 'pay for itself' at that rate, but the loan payments will be done by the end of this season.  It'll sure feel free after that.

I have noticed a possible slight gear box oil leak, but I'm not sure if it is leaking at the bolt or on the seal.  The box does get a little oily all over and dirt sticks to it.  I've been trying to keep it wiped down, but once in a while I notice a little tiny pool of oil if I let it sit too long.  (Usually only when I use the quick kick-stand, when using the 'service' stand it doesn't seem to be an issue.)  I'm guessing that I may have over-torqued the bolt, and possibly partially stripped the bolt or bolt hole.  The fill bold didn't seem to stop spinning when I put it back in this year.  (I used the wrench this year, last year I used the ratchet and if I overdid it, it would have probably been then.)  I'll have to keep a pretty close eye on it this year, and see what it does.  There is plenty of build up on the drain bolt tho, so I'm not really sure.  Maybe replacing the bolt(s) will be enough, or maybe the leak is around the gear box seal itself.  Anyone else had any issues with gear box leaks they can share?  I lost my digi cam last year, so I can't get any pics of it right now, but if it continues to be a problem I'll probably post some up.  Other than just changing the oil early and often, is there a good way to check the level on the gear box oil?  Should I just squirt some in the top from time to time to be safe?

Thanks in advance for any help and pointers.  Hopefully I can return the favor a bit too, I'll go reply to some other topics.


MMSS

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Well, the r50x has basically the same restrictions every scooter has: 1 restriction in the carburetor, another one in the exhaust pipe, and one in the variator(I haven´t actually seen this one myself). The only reversible one is the one at the variator. The other ones involve a bit of cutting and drilling and some messy work, and arent reversible. To get the restriction off the variator you need to follow the steps listed here: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8617 mind that you also need an impact wrench or nut to do this.... I still havent been able to get mine off. If you do manage to get it off please post back and tell me how you did it.
hope I helped!

MMSS


harry

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MMSS:
the variator nut is reverse threads on the TGB's
what  is the carb restriction? other than a #60 main jet?

Hagabard:
a tuned pipe would make a world of difference and you can put the stock back on
if you can give it up after that...
but if you love that scooter, look for a used scooter for your son when he gets of age
and make it a family hobby ,scootering around..
i'm a TGB dealer let me know if you need any stock or performance parts like
this pipe for the R50X:
http://www.whidbeyparts.com/SPD/n-mp-02059--80000C16-1181054855.jsp

oilyhans
i own a scooter shop  with rentals ,sales& racing parts.
i also appraise scooters for KBB.

2003 Vino classic stage 0.75
de-reged stock variator w/8g sliding weights.
1.5k rpm  springs
42mph
2005 veniceLX ~70cc~upjet~1.5k rpm springs & 7gr sliders
46mph
KeyWest de restricted~8gr slide


MMSS

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harry: reverse threads?? I dont really understand this, I´m not a native speaker, what do you mean?? and yes its only a small jet, I mean that it´s kind of messy to get off. Do you know how to get it off without using an impact wrench??


harry

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yes reverse(left hand) threads
that means it is backwards from other nuts
 to remove or loosen reverse threads you "loosen" the nut clockwise
 and a impact/air wrench is the only way

harbor freight has electric ones at a good price

 oilyhans
i own a scooter shop  with rentals ,sales& racing parts.
i also appraise scooters for KBB.

2003 Vino classic stage 0.75
de-reged stock variator w/8g sliding weights.
1.5k rpm  springs
42mph
2005 veniceLX ~70cc~upjet~1.5k rpm springs & 7gr sliders
46mph
KeyWest de restricted~8gr slide


harry

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Quote
: Hagabard ......I got a new battery for $180
next time you have unauthorized  service to your scooter
you should refuse to pay an amount like that.
that dealer is giving all us dealers a bad name.
 a battery should be about $55 and to replace it about
$17.50( 1/4 hr @ $70 hr) its only a 5 min. job

 oilyhans 
i own a scooter shop  with rentals ,sales& racing parts.
i also appraise scooters for KBB.

2003 Vino classic stage 0.75
de-reged stock variator w/8g sliding weights.
1.5k rpm  springs
42mph
2005 veniceLX ~70cc~upjet~1.5k rpm springs & 7gr sliders
46mph
KeyWest de restricted~8gr slide


Hagabard

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Yea, I was none too pleased with them.  Replacing a battery is certainly something I am capable of.  I need to do it again, do you know if there are any size 6 or bigger batteries that I can use that maybe won't go dead so fast as the stock size 5?  I've been looking to see if i can get one that fills up the compartment space lengthwise for more cells.  Maybe it would hold up better...  Such a tiny little battery, and the extra $35-$50/yr gets a little old.  I do need to get the right sized charger for that small of a battery too, that might help during the winter months.

On the gear box oil leak note, it is leaking from the fill plug, so I'm probably going to need to get a new one, or some sort of compression washer to tighten that up.  (The puddles in the garage are getting a little annoying.)  Maybe I'll tear into the rest of this beast and mod it up.  I'll have to remember to get some pictures taken as I go.

The TGB will be paid off by the end of the season, I'm pretty excited about it.  I would have no qualms about picking up a used one at all.  They are really hard to screw up!  Swap out the gear box oil in the spring, and pour in oil and gas as you go.  Swapping the battery.  So simple!

Something else I realized while owning this thing.  When the battery is low, the oil light comes on and stays on.  I've also noticed that when you are driving with a worn down battery that the RPM needle reads wrong, and it will try to kill the engine even when you are going slow.  When I slightly squeezed the break, it stopped trying to kill it.  (I had to ride it home the other day lightly holding the break, once I figured it out.  Beat walking!)


Hagabard

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After not riding it much last year (battery issues, kids jacking up the mirrors, tabs, rear brake light was out...) and gas being what it is I'll be back on it this year.

Mirror was loose, hex wrench fixed.  Replacing the brake light was an adventure.  You have to basically take almost the whole shell apart, the seat and a whole lotta screws to get the assembly out, and then its glued shut!  All that for a cheap ass bulb that will die again in a couple years.  I shoulda have taken pictures to document it for a howto.  (This is the only real complaint I have about my scooter so far.  My little leak I'm sure was me overtightening.)  I paid for the long life bulb... Didn't order cool integrated turn signal bulbs, would have been a great time to put them in.  Would have run with both sets myself.... so when one of the bulbs dies, I'm not hosed.  But I digress.

Tabs, another battery, gearbox oil swap, it'll be good to go.  Still havn't done any preformance mods to this point.  Removing restrictor ring should be my first move, my CDI lets the RPMs go to 11k when my battery isn't crap, and I don't have cash to burn on fun options like a new exhaust.  Having a good battery is key.  I've even toyed with the idea of getting a solar charger (use through the accessory plug?) to keep it charged up... gonna ask about bigger battery options at the store.

I'll try to keep in touch.


Hagabard

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New battery (and a nice charger) are in, tabs are on, and its running pretty well again.  After a few miles of riding, it started to get a little spluttery (like when my battery was going out before...) and slowed down to 20mph for a while but snapped back out of it.  Since I havn't changed the spark plug on it ever, I'll toss a new one in and make sure its not the cause.  Other than that, still the same great scooter I got a few years ago.  Still need to swap out the gear box oil before I put serious miles on it, but I still have plenty of that lying around.  Then removing the restrictor ring.  Going to have to get new tool to do that one.